After not feeling confident about sticking the wings on yesterday I decided, after a little overnight thinking, to fashion a measuring device from the aluminium bar I removed from the boot cover. I folder the end of it over and measured 75mm from the centre line of the front wing stay to a pen mark on the measuring stick. The reason for 75mm is because Derek told me that so long as the front edge of the wing is over the leading edge of the wheel rim (note rim, not tyre) then it will pass IVA. However, the factory cars are all done with a 75mm measurement as above.
With the home made measuring stick, I could easily slide the bar under the wing stay and move it left to right, keeping my eye on the pen mark. It made the job really simple.
I used Sikaflex 521 to bond the wings to the sanded down wing stays, but just before doing that I used a rivet to attach the earth wire to the hole I drilled under the stay, and also fed the live wire through the hole in the stay, but not before first applying heat shrink to this wire, as the build guide states.
Before I got the glue out, I tested the wing repeaters and they both worked fine.
A big sausage of Sikaflex on the stay front and rear, and then press down and re-measure. When I was happy I taped the wings into place against the tyres, and then applied lots more Sikaflex to each side of the stay, donned some rubber gloves and smoothed a more aerodynamic shape around each bar. Left it all to dry overnight and lo and behold, Sikaflex sets like rubberised concrete!
Hood and Tonneau
A job that I wasn’t looking forward to. In fact it wasn’t so bad, just a day full of poppers, drilling and hammering using the Duradot tool.
There were only two painful moments, but these occurred when I hammered my thumb! Craig popped over to help, as it’s a little easier to stretch the hood, check both sides and mark the popper base location.
Just as with the boot cover, I used a few strips of masking tape to mark the location of poppers once the bases were in place.
The only moments of stress come when you have to drill holes in the side skin then through into chassis tubes for the Tonneau, but the assembly guide gives very exact measurements. I used lots of masking tape and I got all holes started by tapping an awl with a mallet. The side skin is so thin, you can make a really good start point for your drill.
Weirdly I never took a photo of the hood or tonneau attached. The hood is already bagged up neatly in my loft. I’m highly unlikely to use it. The only time in recent years in my old car where I wished I had it was in torrential downpour on the French autoroute on the way to Le Mans. Biblical levels of rain and flooding, and the half hood was never going to cope. But other than that one trip, my old half hood was amazing.
So I have ordered a new one, but instead of via Soft Bits for Sevens, this time around I elected for the Thundersport version. For one reason, based on experience. The rear side mounting point on the SBFS variant is on top of the double popper base (first popper for the boot). Mine always used to fly off from here whilst driving.
The Thundersport version has a mounting that sits under the rear FIA roll over bar mount point, so its impossible to come loose. Let’s hope that I have made the right decision!
The tonneau is regularly used, and will spend its life in the boot, protecting against prying eyes and the elements when parked in aero screen mode.
I didn’t have a full day to be able to work on the car today, so I wrapped up quite satisfied that I’d not slipped with the drill and destroyed the side skin, and that I’d fitted the hood and tonneau well (i.e. no baggy, sagging bits and very tight).